I suspect many vegetarians have a packet of dried soy mince like the one in the photo below, lurking at the back of their cupboards. Cheap, long lasting and easily available in supermarkets and health food shops, dried soy mince seems a sensible choice as a substitute for minced beef or lamb. But the reality is, that the rather wet texture it assumes after rehydration can be off-putting. Its bland flavour also needs a lot of help.
Inspired by the perfumed spices and fresh aromas of Indian street food classic Keema Pav, the following recipe will transform dehydrated soy mince into a fragrant dish, packed with protein,
Traditional Keema Pav is a slow-cooked blend of minced meat (usually mutton or goat) and spices, fresh with tomatoes, ginger, garlic and onions, served in a soft, buttery roll. Believed to have its roots in Iran, it has since become a popular Mumbai street food – and there are variations, one involving the addition of an egg, which cooks in the hot meat mixture.
I was introduced to Soy Keema at the wonderful Indian Accent restaurant in Mayfair, London – which has sadly closed, due to Covid-19. A small bowl of rich and fragrant soy mince, with a delicate quail’s egg cracked into the centre, was served with a bouncy, buttery lime-leaf pao (bun). Meat eaters at the table had no idea they were eating soy, the texture was perfect and the flavours layered and complex.
I have been fiddling about, trying to get this recipe right for about two years – and now I think I have cracked it. I had been skimping on oil, which was a mistake – the dish needs fat to carry the flavour.I also realised that it is very important to cook the tomatoes for a long time before adding the cooked mince.
Feel free to put the mixture in a bun, but I tend to eat a large pile of it in a bowl, with some flatbread to mop up the spicy gravy.
Vegan Soy Keema
80g dried soy mince
50 ml coconut oil (Vegetarians may use ghee to add a richer, buttery flavour)
1 onion, finely chopped
250 g fresh tomatoes, chopped – or half can chopped tomatoes.
Half a fresh green chilli, deseeded and chopped – feel free to add more, if you are hardcore
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 inch piece of ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 handful fresh coriander, chopped (substitute for fresh parsley, if you are a “hater”)
1/2 tsp cumin powder
1/2 tsp turmeric
1/2 tsp hot chilli powder
1tsp garam masala
Put the soya granules into a pan of boiling water and cook until soft (I find this takes a matter of minutes). Drain well and set aside.
Melt the coconut oil in a large sauce pan and fry the onion until golden brown. Turn down the heat and add the turmeric and chilli powder until you can smell them. Now add the tomatoes, garlic, ginger and chilli and cook for a minute. Add the remaining dried spices and cook well until the tomatoes are softened and the mixture is well combined.
Place the cooked soy mince into the tomato mixture and cook over a low heat for around three minutes. The soy should begin to separate into grains. Season well with salt and just before serving, sprinkle with a handful of fresh coriander. Serves 4 – the helpings are small as the dish is very rich.
hongkonggourmet 